Autumn lawn restoration timetable

Why autumn, and what the sources agree on

The RHS says autumn lawn care runs through September and October, that the jobs are easy to moderate in difficulty, and that you do not need to do all of them every year. It also says autumn is ideal for repairs, and that the autumn after a dry summer is the best time for renovation.

One caveat on dates. The RHS September lawn page directs scarifying and aerating at Scotland and northern England, which implies that further south the main work can wait until October. Its moss page says to scarify ideally in October or early November, when the grass is growing strongly. Our reading for South East England is that late September to October is the working window, adjusted for the weather. The plan below is general guidance built on those sources, not an RHS schedule.

Early September: assess and keep it simple

Walk the lawn and write down what you see. Check whether you can see soil between the grass blades: the RHS says that if you cannot, the lawn would benefit from scarifying. Note bare patches, moss, compacted wear paths, shaded damp areas and dips. Take a spade and look at the thatch and the soil below.

Keep mowing on a high setting in dry weather. The RHS September advice is to keep the cutting height high, which helps the grass cope with the last warm spell and tolerate foot traffic when wet weather returns.

If summer was dry, resist the urge to fix everything at once. The RHS says drought-browned lawns should green up on their own once autumn rain arrives. Wait for the rain, then judge what is genuinely dead.

Late September to mid-October: the main work

Scarify first. The RHS says to rake vigorously with a spring-tined rake, working in one direction and then the other, without uprooting the grass. On larger lawns use a powered scarifier. Only do it when the soil is not waterlogged and the weather is not very wet, very dry or frosty. Expect a rough, patchy look afterwards. See when to scarify your lawn.

Then aerate. With a garden fork, the RHS says to make holes 10 to 15cm apart, as deep as you can, and wiggle the fork to widen them. Most lawns need aerating every two to three years. On clay or waterlogged soil it suggests a hollow-tined aerator every three to four years, sweeping up the plugs. The RHS October page says aeration can also be left until spring depending on the weather.

Top dress. After aerating, the RHS gives a mix of three parts sandy loam, six parts sharp sand (horticultural, not builders' sand) and one part well-rotted compost or soil improver. Apply roughly 2 to 3kg per square metre, working it into the holes with the back of a rake or a broom. Use less if a lot stays on the surface, a little more if it disappears quickly.

Overseed or repair. The RHS autumn page does not use the word overseeding, but it says autumn is ideal for reseeding or re-turfing bare patches, and that spring and autumn are the best times to sow from seed. Its seed page gives September to November or March to April as the sowing windows and says early autumn is better. Follow the packet for the seed rate. Our overseeding guide covers the method.

Feed, if needed. The RHS says most lawns recover from summer stress without feed. If the grass is growing poorly after scarifying and aerating, use an autumn feed, which is higher in potassium and phosphorus, within the September to mid-October window. Never use leftover summer feed. See when and how to feed your lawn.

Watering and protecting new seed

Newly sown seed needs moisture to germinate. The RHS says that if no rain is forecast for a few days, water gently with a light spray that will not dislodge the seeds, and water every few days if necessary. To keep birds off, it suggests horticultural fleece weighted down at the edges, bird tape on larger areas, or increasing the sowing rate by 50 per cent to compensate for losses.

When the seedlings reach 5 to 7.5cm, the RHS says to refirm the soil lightly, then cut two or three days later, taking off only about one-third of the height. Its October advice is to set the blades at 5cm or higher for the first cut on new areas, and that they should only need mowing once this year.

November: clear up, then leave it alone

Keep fallen leaves off the grass. The RHS October advice is to remove them to prevent smothering and shading, using a rake or a battery-powered leaf blower on large lawns. Mow only if needed in mild weather on a slightly higher setting, since grass keeps growing above 7 degrees Celsius.

As general guidance, keep foot traffic off freshly seeded or scarified areas, and do not work the lawn when it is frozen or waterlogged. Neither RHS autumn page lists specific November tasks, so treat November as a mop-up month for anything the weather delayed.

How the weather changes the order

• Wet autumn: postpone scarifying until the surface is not waterlogged, as the RHS advises. Aerate before the soil is saturated if you can, otherwise move to spring.
• Dry autumn: the RHS also says not to scarify when it is very dry. Wait for rain, or water seed in carefully.
• Early frosts: the RHS places autumn feeding ideally before the first frosts and the seed window ends when soil falls below 7 degrees Celsius. If you miss it, hold seed over to March and April.
• Drought-affected lawn: the RHS says not to apply weedkiller or fertiliser to drought-affected turf in autumn, but to wait until spring if needed.

What to leave until spring

The RHS October page says aerating can be left until spring. Its drought page says lawn weedkiller and fertiliser on drought-affected turf can wait until spring. Its spring advice is to feed in mid-spring, usually late March to April, while the lawn is actively growing, and to overseed sparse or bare patches in mid-spring, once the weather is milder, to restore the lawn by summer. It also advises cutting an 8cm gutter around lawn edges in spring.

If the work feels like a lot, our lawn restoration team can take it on, or you can spread the cost across the year with the annual plan.